Re: MS Carburetor

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Posted by Tim Daley(MI) on February 11, 2022 at 07:00:35 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: Re: MS Carburetor posted by Steve Dabrowski on February 09, 2022 at 15:01:08:

HiYa Steve-
Yep, plastic Venturis suk too. I wonít use those cheap Cheena junkers. I learned a long time ago to always use the OEM parts whenever possible. I have saved coffee cans with old M/S carb parts Ė one for OEM floats, throttle plates, choke plates, hardware and more. Plates get cleaned and polished to a shiny brass finish and I take the edges and remove the burrs. I also have several OEM Main Needle Seats and have reused many times. I sharpen the point and polish and they work fine. New needles are now made with a Viton tip that makes them a harder substance. Thatís fine but I try to avoid those newer needles that have the two piece designs Ė why reinvent the wheel? Why add more parts that guys have a hard time figuring out they mount? The little clip hooks to the float and loops around the needle. I would cringe when a guy brought me a cloned Chi-Comm unit to work on. Thatís when I found that the Zeno-Marv (thatís what I call them) cloned Cheena units are junk. These are Zenith and Marvel units that have been cloned from clones. You can tell a clone just by a glance. The paddle boss looks funny and has no Date Code tag like the M/Sís. The four 12-24 Filibuster screws that fasten the two carb halves together have Phillips head/cross recessed screw heads AND they are usually Metric. I once thought Iíd try a carb kit sold on ebay and what I got was also junk. Unmarked, unknown make, it had metal choke and throttle plates, not brass, and the small screws that secured those plates was also steel and Metric. That is why I only buy the TISCO CARB KITS now. Get the complete/major kit, C546V kit, not the cheaper kit that doesnít have, many parts. The OEM Marvel-Schebler or an original Zenith carb is the way to go when rebuilding. But you knew that alreadyÖ

Tim Daley(MI)


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