Re: engine misses

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Posted by Bruce (VA) on November 04, 2014 at 09:18:07 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: engine misses posted by dallas wolf on November 04, 2014 at 00:22:19:

" I have advanced and retarded the timing "

That's not your problem, but it could make things worse.

Re-set the point gap & set the timing correctly at the 1/4" mark.

Got a jig? Makes it easier.

Check the bushings for wear (tip # 68) and the advance weights while the distributor is off.

Having all new parts doesn't always mean they work. Or that they were installed correctly.

Start w/ the simple stuff.

Re-gap the old plugs & put them back in.

If that doesn't work, re-adjust the carb.

Make sure the tractor is at operating temp; that usually takes 10 – 15 minutes at idle depending on ambient temp.

Both Ford and Marvel/Schebler (assuming you have a M/S carb ) say to set both the side-pointing idlemix and the down-pointing mainjet to 1-turn as a starting point. I set the down-pointing mainjet to 1-1/2 turns and don't fool w/ it until the final step.

Then adjust the side-pointing idlemix for fastest idle; not the smoothest idle.

Next, adjust the behind the carb idle-speed set-screw for very slow 400-rpms idle.

Do that idlemix adjust for maximum idle at least 3-times. Make sure that you turn the screws slowly, like 1/8 of a turn at a time & wait a second or two for the engine to catch up. Take your time!

Do it like this:

1. Adjust idle mix jet until RPM increases

2. Adjust idle-mix set screw until the engine nearly stops (as slow as you can get it unless you have a tach that tells you 400 rpm)

Repeat steps 1 - 3 three times.

Remember the side-pointing idlemix is out for lean, in for rich.
If you do not have any problems inside the carb, it is easy to get the idle down to 350 - 400 rpms.

Your last step is to go back to the main jet. Remember, in for lean, out for rich. If you end up turning it OUT more than ½ turn for max power (remember, you already had it 1 ½ turns out) then stop right there because you have a dirty carb or a fuel problem.

Lastly, each of us has his own definition of a carb rebuild. If your rebuild did not include soaking the carb 24 hrs in a bucket of caustic carb cleaner & blowing out every orifice w/ a rubber tipped air gun, you didn't do a rebuild, IMHO. You just replaced parts.

If it's not plugs or the carb, post back w/ results & we can explore other possibilities.


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