Re: 8N Serial Number Question

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Posted by Tim Daley(MI) on February 10, 2021 at 08:19:04 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: 8N Serial Number Question posted by Terry in Mo (T-Mo) on February 10, 2021 at 07:21:13:

Heres what I highly advise. First of all you guys are looking at the center housing casting number, NOT an engine serial number. If an 8N there is a date code rag on the block, on the starter pocket, coded by numbers and letters. I167 would be for September 16, 1947. Serial number and Date Code Id tag info is found at the bottom here in scans. We have a s/n listing here in our HOW-TO's forum -click on LINK below. Bear in mind that s/n's only are relevant if you have an early 9N or early 8N you are restoring to all original. Other than that they mean little and here's why: The serial number only ID's the ENGINE block as to when it was passed in QC Inspection, not the entire tractor though Ford engine blocks were also intended to be used as the model s/n too, BUT engines got swapped out often. ALL 9N,2N and early 8N serial numbers had a STAR (*) symbol in the prefix and suffix to designate steel cylinder liners were installed. When the Ford 8N revamped the distributor to the RH side (mid-1950) as the angle mount, the generator also got revamped and moved to the LH side and the blocks started using cast iron sleeves. The block s/n's then used a diamond (<>) symbol in the prefix and suffix to designate cast iron sleeves. Today it is a moot point because they no longer make steel liners, only cast iron. cast iron was the standard from then on an continues today in engine blocks. The main important things to help ID your tractor are for all 9N's and 2N's, they will have a 3-speed transmission, a front mount distributor, no POSITION CONTROL, a 1-Wire/3-Brush generator (after s/n 12500) with a roundcan cutout, a 1-Wire starter motor with NO solenoid, and a few other minor changes. The 8N Model used a 4-spd trans; POSITION CONTROL with a revamped hydraulic pump and parts; a 3-Wire/3-Brush generator (to 1950 then a 2-Brush unit) with a square Voltage Regulator; a starter motor WITH a 3-wire solenoid, and some other minor changes. These are just the major differences and all as the OEM 6V/POS GRN system. Some N's have been switched over to 12V but none where ever done at the factory. If you don't have them, it is wise investment to get the essential manuals. The CLYMER/I&T FO-4 Manual is a huge asset and the MPCs (here for free downloads) can help ID when models got changed out with these things and some of the things not listed. Next, once you know if a 9N or an 8N, seller didnt know how to find a serial number so wonder if he has the model correct at least, is if it has the front mount or later (1950+ 8N only) side mount distributor. The other important detail is if it still the OEM 6V/POS GRN electrical system or has someone switched it to a 12V job. The most important tools you can invest in are the Essential Correct Manuals BEFORE you do any wrenching or buying parts. There is a right way and many wrong ways to do things on an N. Also in our HOW-TO's is Bruce(VA)'s '75 Tips for N-Owners' and 'WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR', download an save.See if this helps:






Tim Daley(MI)

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