In Reply to: Electronic ignition? posted by Matt G on December 01, 2020 at 19:39:30:
It is your tractor and you can do whatever you want with it. Contrary to some, we are trying to help, not beating you up, or trying to convince you to go one way or the other, and not arguing over 6V and 12V systems. Each has its own pros and cons. What many of us are saying is donít fall into that false belief that if it ainít running on 6V, ya gotta go to 12V. As a newbie, you, at least I, would want to know why it isnít running in the first place. Like Bruce says, you can go out and buy all new parts and replace them and you may or may not run into the fix. So, does the tractor run now? No? Then why not troubleshoot as to the true root cause first? It could be simply a bad/dead battery. FACT: 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring. If it won't start/run on 6V what makes you think it will on 12V? See Bruce(VA)'s 75 Tips. Swapping out engines can involve not getting the new wiring right and I suspect that is what has happened with yours. The 9N/2N models were basically all the same after s/n 12500. They used the front mount distributor; square can coil; a 1-Wire Starter Motor with NO SOLENOID; a 1-Wire 3/Brush Generator with the roundcan cutout; the Ballast Resistor; Ammeter; Ignition Switch and no lights. Lights were never a factory item on Nís. The 8N used a 3-Wire Starter Motor WITH A SOLENOID; a 3-Wire/3-Brush (later 2-Brush) Generator WITH a rectangular Voltage Regulator that had 3 wires ĖARM FLD BAT - plus a ground; Ballast Resistor (until side mount dist); Ammeter; Ignition switch; and no lights. I suggest you do some more research first before making a decision and see what electrical system you have now. It could be PO cobbled together something that worked, at least for a while. There was a conversion one could do to add the 8N 3-Wire GEN and a VR to a 9N setup but we can discuss later once we see what is going on. As far as your front mount distributor, I rebuild them so if you want to send yours to me I will do so set to OEM specs, guaranteed to fire up. Email is open. Just saying leave options open now and get to the root cause then make the choice whether to go to 12V. As far as EI goes, I never had a desire nor need to go to it. When I had my shop, Iíd get customers calling to say their N wouldnít start now and Iíd find out they put EI in them. I wouldnít even muck with it, just switched back to points and it fired up everytime. To each his own.