Re: Purchasing 2N things to look for

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Posted by Tim Daley(MI) on October 16, 2020 at 06:54:41 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: Purchasing 2N things to look for posted by James Purifoy on October 15, 2020 at 16:56:31:

Welcome aboard the NTC James! As a newbie, the best tool you can invest in are the ESSENTIAL MANUALS -see pix. Read them and the stuff in our HOW-TO'S forum. I disagree that a non-running N is only worth $500. Often these set for 10,20,30 years as non-runners. If engine isn't stuck, test for water in oils, and get battery tested as if it's old chances are it is dead. Have tested at a local shop and if dead, now buy a new one, GR1 6V/GRP 25 or GRP 35 if 12V. Avoid spending money on new parts otherwise right now. Determine if old is defective first. Are you set up to run on the OEM 6V/POS GRN electrical system or are you switched to a 12V job? Most non-running issues are due to incorrect wiring. It is always best to know for sure and not guess. The OEM Ford main components were designed to be rebuilt over and over and considering the condition that all the new aftermarket Cheena parts are made nowadays (NO Quality Control) it is best to stick with OEM parts. Now that you know you have a front mount distributor and not a magneto, you can rebuild the OEM module on your bench or kitchen table. New points can be junk at a lot of places so get the Standard Ignition Blue Streak FD-6769X, sold at NAPA, or the CNH #887744524 brand. NAPA has all the other USA made distributor parts too. The distributor tuneup is not difficult but is vitally important to have mounted correctly when it is done. Mount it 180 off and you will break the base around the cam tangs and render it useless. A new base would be needed then, and no need to buy a whole new unit. You need the OEM Operating Instruction Manual, the I&T FO-4 Manual, and 39-53 MPC if nothing else. Check carb - perform the fuel flow test, don't mess with any settings now. Disconnect battery, go thru the entire wiring system with correct wiring setup -see HOW-TO's/ELECTRICAL/WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR to download. Use your VOM, not a test light, and set it to 'continuity'. Don't go by wire colors. OEM Sketches are shown color coded and only for reference. The front mount uses the ballast resistor regardless if 6V or 12V. If the coil is OEM 6V, and you use 12V, you will also need an inline external 1-OHM ceramic resistor. If you run 12V and get a 12V coil, omit the external resistor. If 6V with a generator, the 9N & 2N use a round cutout circuit on back dash panel with generator but also needs a belt tensioning device. If you are using 12V, the genny and cutout are switched out for an alternator and12V/NEG GRN setup. I have OEM carbs, generators, and distributors if you need help. My email is open. More tech info can be found from the document "75 Tips For N-Owners" by Bruce(VA) also in HOW-TO's. A 9N/2N or even 8N is a great learning tractor to get familiar with. Know what is what before doing any work. The average price on a running N nowadays is about $1800-$2500. The market for vintage tractors has gone way down over the last 10-20 years -very little, to no interest. Email is open if you want more info...

FORD TRACTOR 9N & 2N OEM 6V/POS GRN WIRING:



FRONT MOUNT TIMING PROCEDURE:

FORD TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR TIMING APPLICATION GAGE:

FORD FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR WHAT HAPPENS WHEN MOUNTED 180 OFF:



FORD TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR FIRING ORDER; 1,2,4,3 CCW:


OEM FORD 2N-10000 GENERATOR WITH BELT TENSIONER ATTACHED:





FORD 9N/2N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:


Tim Daley(MI)



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