Re: New generator stops working on 2n

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Posted by Steve Frysinger on August 06, 2020 at 21:19:52 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: Re: New generator stops working on 2n posted by Tim Daley(MI) on August 06, 2020 at 15:29:34:

> First thing I have to ask is does the generator have belt tensioning device?

It has the band system and the tension is fine. And the genny was working upon installation.

> Is the generator correct: 1-Wire/3-Brush OEM type?

Yes.

> You can have a local starter shop bench test gen & battery.

Battery shop tested that new battery was good, and I bench/motor tested the brand new genny. (I also tested the one I took out and verified it didn't work. Maybe someday I'll rebuild it, but....)

> Cutout circuit test is in the FO-4 Manual or shop can also do. Get wiring diagrams and verify via continuity.

Funny you say this. When I bought this tractor 35 years ago I bought an FO-4 manual. But about a week ago someone somewhere mentioned a 152 page FO-4, whereas mine has only 39 pages. I always wondered why folks were so psyched about this manual because I found it lacking. Once I learned I had the Reader's Digest condensed version I ordered the full sized one, and should get it soon. (No idea WHY they would call the small one by the same name...) Meanwhile, thanks for your attachments!

> Get a working AMMETER.

As I said, I will be installing one. But since modern replacements are really voltmeters set up to read current, I don't expect different results than my voltmeter shows. When I first put the genny in, I saw voltage changes (as I said) from ~6.5 to ~7.5 volts with changes in RPM. It no longer does that, so something has changed in the charging system. Hence my post.

> When tractor fails to run, check for spark right then.

I did that in the field. Plug light didn't light, but I could feel a minor jolt while holding the wire. That led me to try a new coil (I had been meaning to change that anyway). But I think it the poor spark was due to the low battery. Once I got it back to my shop and charged it up the spark tested fine.

> Is the OEM Ballast Resistor in the circuit?

Yes, though it's probably due for a change. 35 years ago, when I bought this tractor, it had a 12 volt battery in it negative grounded, and the owner didn't know why it wouldn't charge and he had to jump start it! I set it back up with 6v positive ground, and replaced the resistor then. So it's been awhile.

> The coil can be tested static with an OHM METER.

I'll try that on my old one, since the new one is in the tractor.

> verify the wiring is exact as should be, no shortcuts.

I have, and will double check. But since it's been running very reliably for me for 35 years I'm pretty sure it hasn't changed. But it might have grown some rust shorts and such.

> While engine is cold you can also do a fuel flow test, but I suspect your issues are electrical.

I agree. It runs fine when the battery's full, with no evidence of starvation.

The reason I posted was for ideas about where else I might have a phantom drain on the battery besides the cutout. I know they are notorious for failing (even new ones) and can drain the battery. But are there other PARTICULAR places where folks have seen battery drains on these machines? Given the rains, I have about 5 days to sort this out, so I don't want to do a complete rewiring job right now if I can avoid it.

So, besides the cutout, where else have y'all found battery drains on your machines?

Thanks Tim!
Steve


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