Re: Problem starting my 8N Ford

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Posted by Tim Daley(MI) on May 22, 2020 at 05:29:06 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: Problem starting my 8N Ford posted by JIm Schroeder on May 21, 2020 at 15:47:14:

HiYa Jim-
Your symptom describes a dead battery. Do you use a battery float charger when tractor is not in use? Highly recommended. Is your electrical system the OEM 6V/POS GRN or has a 12V switch out job been done on it? It matters when you are jump starting from your car or truck battery. The power source/battery is the heart of any system. It must meet specific gravity, sustain a full charge under load, and ensure proper connections are made at all times. It isn't the starter as you found out. You are grasping at straws -don't guess. Testing and Root Cause problem solve for any problem. Doubtful your starter safety pushbutton switch is faulty as well -hold off on buying any more parts until you get the battery tested; it's most likely all you may need to buy. Start here: Your local starter/alternator shop or auto parts store will have the bench testing machine so take it there. Read further and if you don't already have the Essential Manuals, invest in them. Know that 99% of all non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring as well so once battery is confirmed to be good, you can proceed to verify the entire wiring system before you turn over. Go to our HOW-TO's forum as well and under electrical is 'WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR' -see LINK -and download a copy as well as '75 Tips for N-Owners' by Bruce(VA).

*from Bruce(VA)...

You need a strong battery to:

1. Spin the starter
2. Engage the Bendix
3. Provide voltage to the coil.

Tips on battery care and performance:
As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark. The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition. It doesn't really matter much if the battery is "fully charged" until you test it correctly. 4 Volts is an almost dead unit. Bench test under load and specific gravity must be tested. Your trusty local starter/alternator shop can bench test it on their special machine, usually at no charge –no pun intended. No matter what else you do, the battery must be fully charged. Cheap brands are prone to poor lifespans. The TSC and Wally World ones are the worst. 7 years is a good run for a 6V battery. Briefly in a nutshell, you want a GP-1 6V AG battery -no Deep Cycle or RV/Golf Cart types. I suggest you invest in one of the better brands. Those would be DEKA, INTERSTATE, EAST PENN/DURACELL, or EXIDE. I'm not sure who makes the NAPA one but I've heard good things about it. Get at least a 550-750 CCA with the average cost at about $125.

A fully charged 6v battery should read about 6.3 - 6.6 volts. In order to get that charge level, your v/r must allow 7.2 volts to the battery. Specific gravity should be 1.24 - 1.28 on each cell. A hydrometer is used but your shop has the machine to test under load. Battery cables are important too. 6V cables are thick as your thumb due to current used and the ground is a braided flat strap. SEE DENNIS CARPENTER or JUST8Ns. Clean all the grounds & the battery posts. 6V mantra: Clean, bright, and tight.
A float charger is VERY helpful; NOT a trickle charger, but a float charger, like the DELTRAN Battery Tender Jr.® ™. It is a popular brand, available at Walmart, $30. A battery charger, even a "trickle" charger, left unattended will eventually boil out a battery. Connect the battery Tender to your battery when the tractor is idle for periods over a week.



Tim Daley(MI)

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