In Reply to: Selinoid just clicks posted by John on April 03, 2019 at 14:58:12:
Your battery most likely isn't getting charged, so, STOP replacing parts and don't try to jump start it. If it is wired wrong, which is the usual case, you don't want to do further damage by applying power. The usual root cause problem of the starter motor solenoid just clicking, 8N and up models, 9N and 2N never used a solenoid, can be traced to a bad/weak battery. How did you test it? As I read down your posts, I see you say it is a 12V switch over job. Now I suspect your problem is poor/incorrect wiring. I concur that just replacing parts and wasting money is foolish without first determining of part is defective or not. First, starters don't care if 6V or 12V (see JMOR's reply) so NO, buying a 12V starter is a waste of time and money especially when you don't know the condition of old one. Rebuilding the OEM unit, is always the first choice on these old Fords. There's nothing wrong with a 12V conversion if done for the right reason, but so MANY are simply done incorrectly. SEE LINK below to our HOW-TO's/ELECTRICAL forum for WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR. Scroll down to find your setup -forget serial number, go by whether a front mount or a side mount 8N, then download a copy for yourself. IF it is a front mount distributor, you need the OEM Ballast Resistor in the circuit on any 12V conversion. If the front mount coil is 6V, you need to add the external 1-OHM ceramic resistor in-line. You can switch the coil to a 12V unit and discard the external resistor (best choice) but NOT the ballast resistor. The Pictograms explain things thoroughly. On a side mount simply switch the coil to 12V as well -side mounts don't use a Ballast Resistor. Next is to go thru the wiring completely and ensure it is all correct –take NO shortcuts. It would be wise to get the battery tested the right way. A battery must meet specific gravity and sustain a full charge under load. A hydrometer can be used but, if you take your battery and starter to your trusty local starter/alternator shop they can bench test them with the right equipment. An auto parts store can usually test the battery but I know of none that will test/rebuild a starter -they usually farm out those to the local shop guy. Begin performing a thorough, root cause problem solving method before applying power. Report back with a follow up on your results.