In Reply to: Re: Amp meter posted by Bob E on November 21, 2018 at 19:42:34:
Just replacing parts because you 'think' they may be bad is not a very logical approach to solve a problem. I doubt if your VR was/is bad. Some N Owners slap a 12V battery in their machines and leave the VR and genny and they will run. There were 12V generators too. A typical 12V switch over job removes the genny and VR from the circuit and replaces them with an alternator. You can perform a motoring test on the generator to determine if it is good or bad. Your local starter shop can also do this. He can also test the VR and AMP GAUGE as well. The I&T F-04 Manual has a chapter on performing a generator motoring test. I would do that first, verify battery has a full sustainable charge on it, and then proceed to go thru the entire wiring setup. Disconnect all the lights just to take them out of the circuit for now. A good wiring harness helps, keeps wires contained and ID'd by color, but many fellas have ho-made wiring jobs and that can be a culprit especially if the same spool of wire is used for all the wires. Do a continuity test on all wires. Don't use an idiot test light, those require power and you don't want that. Here is a wiring diagram for the Fergie TO-30, 6V/POS GRN system -see LINK from the Ferguson site. While battery and generator are being tested, verify wiring. I'm leaning towards a faulty wiring job as your root cause. I do know many times fellas attempt to wire lights on the tractors and end up doing it wrong and the result causes other issues.