Re: Sputtering 9n

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Posted by Tim Daley(MI) on May 27, 2018 at 04:43:51 [URL] [DELETE] :

In Reply to: Sputtering 9n posted by Michael K. on May 26, 2018 at 22:57:04:

HiYa Michael-
Welcome aboard the NTC and the wonderful world of Ford Tractors. We have a ton of valuable information starting with the HOW-TO's forum. The red menu bra at the top of HOME page will display it. Your 'sputtering' issue could be due to one or more reasons. Here's a LINK to one document there on starting a tractor that has been setting for a long period. If the fuel sediment bulb had a 1/8" of sludge in the glass bowl, chances are the entire unit needs cleaning. There are two in-line screens on the unit, one on top of the part at the fuel inlet port, and the other a flat round removable brass fine mesh screen horizontal on top of the unit where the glass bowl secures to -see diagram. The vertical top screen is non-removable only soldered in place, originally, but newer units now use a glue on them. Use caution when cleaning it so as not to dislodge it from the base. Use a carb cleaner solution or lacquer thinner to clean the parts with and gently air blow dry. The bulb assembly screws into the fuel tank with an NPT thread on both parts. The assembly uses special fuel/brake line threads on the outlet line and valve stem port. They are 7/16-24 UNS, so use caution when installing -always start with fingers, never force them. As a newbie it is also recommended to get originals or copies of the essential owner manuals. You'll need at least these: The 9N/2N Operator's Manual; the 9N/2N Service Manual; the I&T F-04 Manual; and the '39-'53 MPC (Master Parts Catalogue). There are others too, and we have all of the MPCs in our MANUALS forum for specific model years as well. You can download and save any document on any forum free. It is also important to know if your tractor is 6-volt or 12-volt. The original FORD electrical systems were/are 6-volt/positive ground set ups. A lot have been 'converted' to 12-volts, but be aware that many 12-volt jobs are done poorly and incorrectly, thus creating non-starting/non-running issues. There are other documents too -WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR in How-To's, and Bruce(VA)'s 75 Tips For N-Owners that you should also download and save. In the LINKS forum you'll find a listing for John Smiths web site. Go there and click on "TRACTOR ID/HISTORY" to learn a lot more about each specific model and what changes were made along the way. Meantime, it is probably a good idea to rebuild the carb, not just try and adjust the jets. With the idle mix screws set as you say, someone was having problems and ended up with the settings all jazzed up like that. Carbs must be set with engine hot and governed under load. Yu don't just set jet screws and walk away. Often it takes 2 or 3 attempts to get it right. As I said, it's probably a good idea to get the carb rebuilt and then muck with settings. Meanwhile, get the manuals and read religiously. Ditto with the documents mentioned too.



Tim Daley(MI)

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